That land of Manors & Millponds

I am a not an easy traveller to please! On a holiday, I demand to be treated like a US President, to be thrilled like a zany teen, to be pampered like a new jamai, and to be spoilt-silly like that only daughter of a family.

And Udaipur treats me exactly like this

A stroll across the dingy lanes from Rao Ji Ki Hata to City Palce, makes me revel with an awe, in praise of the beauty that lies in simplicity. The colours of Pichwai & Phad paintings at Hathi Pol bazaar, lures me with its vibrant hues. The intricate handicrafts at the Chetak Circle deletes the memory of excess baggage fee, I pay every time at Udaipur Airport, while departing with my bags stuffed with my unique finds. The grandeur of the City Palace, swirls my soul into the charm of the bygone era. That quaint café in the premise of the palace, immediately transports me in the state of bliss. While, I love waking up to the grandeur of Shiv Niwas Palace,  I can’t do without a resplendent dinner at Upre, one of my favourite lakeside restaurants. I take pride in the fact that Udaipur is clear winner of numerous tourism awards every year. I also like to flaunt that it is a home to reputed institutes like IIM Udaipur.

And mind you! I am just another traveller for Udaipur… born in Delhi and growing old in Mumbai. But still the soil of this land of Mewar dynasty feels familiar – only because, every time I travel to this city of lakes, it makes sure to treat me like her own in every way.

I have been here, many times, in last ten years. And every time, I have returned mesmerised by the sheer elegance of the tall palaces and havelis. And absolutely satiated with some unique experiences like a morning walk with playful peacocks or buying unique distressed look artifacts for my highrise residence back in the urban bubble called Mumbai.

Almost two decades back, the tourism in India saw a major boom. There was a fleet of new travellers, who were witnessing this major transition in India. This was the generation that had relatively cool parents. They were the ones who were privileged to celebrate their birthdays at global fast food chains like McDonalds & Pizza Hut. They wanted to move around in self-driven cars, while talking on their newly bought Nokia handphones, with very expensive pre-paid talk time from Airtel and Orange. As soon as, this fleet started earning fat salaries from swanky multinational brands, travelling became the most quoted hobby on professional resume.

It was around this time, the luxury chains like Taj and Oberoi, opened their gates, haughtily though, and Udaipur was among the first few cities, being adorned by such luxury hospitality chains. With five-star properties from all the major hospitality chains, multiple flight options, new knowledge of plastic money, India entered in this glorious phase of burgeoning tourism. Both business and leisure travel became a casual norm in everyone’s lives.

Thus, came a time when destinations like Udaipur, Goa, Jaipur, Amritsar and Kerala found visitors, in groups and solo, both.  

My stories in this series, will too follow exactly the same order.

So, my first destination is Udaipur. An Insta-favourite! Be it the Lake Pichola, colourful bazaars, or the Vintage Car museum, Udaipur fascinates one and all with its various hues.

So, for my information on Udaipur and how it has managed to keep itself so relevant to the likes of Ambanis and backpackers alike, I reached out to the man whose DNA belongs to the very foundation of the city. He is the 76^th custodian of the House of Mewar – Shriji Arwind Singh Mewar. Shrijji, as he is fondly called, has been instrumental in creating an inviting image of Udaipur. He is also the chairman of HRH Group of Hotels, which has created a legacy of sorts in creating royal wedding extravaganzas for affluent couples from popular business families, Bollywood, NRIs and HNIs from the neighbouring khakra-loving state of Gujarat.

And my first point of curiosity was, how has Udaipur become a destination of excellence, and he said, “tourism today is about experiences, whether it is backpackers or high networth individuals, they want to ‘experience the culture and character of a city’. Look at it, every visitor to our city visits The City Palace Museum without fail; today, we have more a million visitors each year. This is a record of sorts. Our endeavour is to make it a memorable and worthwhile visit for them. When it comes to ‘destination weddings’, we are delighted that HRH Group of Hotels has pioneered the Regal Weddings experience and made Udaipur the most preferred wedding destination and for ceremonial events. It has been very satisfying to witness this development. But one cannot be complacent in today’s time and age of experiential tourism. The need is to go on innovating and coming up with new tourism products that can set new trends.”

His vision reflects in the annual calendar of the City Palace, which is as vibrant as the city itself. The palace hosts the annual Mewar Holika Dahan, followed by a grand celebration by the locals including a royal buffet and Gair dance performances around the Holi pyre. Besides these various other festivals are celebrated in sync with the heritage and grandeur of this 1500-year-old dynasty.

Udaipur is one of the few destinations of India, which is constantly upgrading itself, juxtaposing the ancient monumental and cultural legacy. The Udaipur Biological Park and Under the Sun fish aquarium are latest such examples. Even the City Palace has pre-recorded audio-visual information in seven languages for visitors across the world.  For a hygiene-cautious urban soul like me, finding a clean & working headphone at an Indian heritage destination is like a huge sense of acheivment. Simply because, this gives me an idea that someone has been  mindful of treating the tourists at par with the international code of conduct.

It is this passion for sheer excellence that reflects in the mindset of the people of Udaipur, and Shriji puts it in one voice with authority, “Yes, tourism has to be holistic, integrated and sustainable; it has to be rooted in the cultural ethos of the land. Moreover, the people of the city have to have enormous pride in their heritage and history. Without that pride and sense of belonging, no city can sustain this trajectory of growth. Have pride in our cultural heritage, concern for the city and make Udaipur even more beautiful than it is today! This is my message and it has also been my personal mission as a Member of the House of Mewar.”

On of such my visit to the city I met, Meropi, a coffee connoisseur, a chef, an adventurer, who settled in India in the year 2013, “I got entangled in these winding lanes of Udaipur. The waters of Lake Pichola held me so tight that I decided to stay back in here.” She now runs a café by the name of Udai Art Café, near Jagdish Temple. “Udaipur is an international city in India. It had esteem institutes like IIM, best hotels, most advanced option for tourists, be it the designer boats in Lake Pichola or various art galleries,” says Meropi.

No wonder, Udaipur won big at the Conde Nast Tourism awards 2019, as the favourite tourism destination in both leisure and luxury segment.

My list of must do at Udaipur includes,

Day 1-

A stay at Udaivilas, mid-morning visit to City Palace, Lunch at Krishna Dal Baati, get your 4-baje-waali chai at one of the corner tea-stalls, go for motor-water sports in the evening at lake Fateh followed by cosy dinner at one of the lakeside restaurants – Ambrai or Upre by 1559 AD.

Day 2 –

Head out to the Zoo followed by a trip to Under the Sun fish aquarium, enjoy a feast at JMB Nashta Center at Chetan Circle, spend your evening while watching a mesmerising Dharohar folk dance performance at Bagore Ki Haweli and wrap up your day with a scrumptious-meal in the lawns at 1559 Udaipur.

Day 3 –

Enjoy the grandeur of the wheels at the Vintage Car Museum and head to numerous bazaars for a brazen shopping experience. Go for boatride at Lake Pichole at the sundown. If you are staying at a Taj or Oberoi property enquire for their luxury boat rides. It is must do experience for everyone who like to takeback some lifetime memories.

My next destination of excellence is – Goa. Get ready to go Wild and carefree!

Text – Me, Princy Jain

Photos – Eternal Mewar & Me, again